6.1.00

Got the underskirt done, except for some sort of closure. I'll probably just grom it, and tie the thing shut, since that's in back and nobody will see it. I used french seams on the vertical seams, enclosed the rough bits in the waistband, and hand-stitched the hem (I don't want any machine stitching visible. It's called Masochism.)

It's made of really pretty beige and cream linen with a woven stripey pattern. Pre-washed to a) remove the sizing, and b) shrink it, so it can go though the washer & dryer. (I have to make everything like this; it's the problem with living with someone who seems to belive that everything must be washed within two days of being worn.) I used Simplicity 8715 (well, the plus size version, which seems to have dissapeared from their site.) for the skirt pattern, since that's my favorite skirt ever. (Full enough to keep me amused, but not so full that a stiff breeze will show the world what I'm wearing under it.) I fudged the waistband (I always do), kept the front flat, with a few pleats, and gathered the back.

(It works like this.. take your waistband. Mark the 1/2 and 1/4 points. Now, mark halfway between the 1/4 marks and 1/2 mark. Gather the back sections of the skirt to this point. Pin the center front at the 1/2 mark. Gently gather or pleat the rest of the front section into the waistband, keeping the very front-most bit ungathered. This is very flattering on just about everyone. It lies flat in front, minimizing any bulges pushed down by your corset or bodice. If you pleat it, aim the openings of the pleats towards your sides, not your center.)

Cut the bodice for the overdress last night. Someone on the SCA Garb list posted about a fix for armhole gaposis, and it worked well. The overdress is of deep olive green linen (scratchy!), also pre-washed, so it's a wee bit fuzzy. Drapes really nicely, though. The bodice is lined with heavy brown twill (it was in my stash, not doing anything. It's fair game.)

The skirt of the overdress will be a simple rectangle gathered skirt (probobly), because if I actually lose the weight I want to, it will be easier to re-do when I have to alter the dress.

The front of the bodice will be boned with cut-up plastic hangers (Yeouch! Uncomfortable!), because I don't have any boning in the right length or weight. I fully intend to replace it with good stuff as soon as I can. It'll lace up the front, and I'll overcast the gromms with black embroidery thread.

The leine/chemise is of batiste, which was a fairly chemical shade of cream when I bought it. It has been tea- and saffron-dyed, producing a very lovely warm tan shade. The casing at the neckline for the drawstring was hand-stitched, as will be the cuffs.

I got the sleeve pleating pinned, completely freehand, and they actually match up! I'm so proud! If I'd had a brain in my head, though, I'd have cut off strips of the fabric to blackwork before pinning. I didn't, so I'll probobly use scraps from the skirt or overdress on the sleeves. Until I figure out exactly what I'm doing with them, I'm not working on the chemise.

I want to make a pair of sleeves to go with this, and intend to keep enough back of my green linen to do so at some point in the future.

7.17.00, update

This stuff is done. It fits perfectly, looks good. A little too English, perhaps (the neckline on the bodice IS rather low), but I can just claim to be from a border town. I never said that my character was a Highlander.

The Irish sleeves aren't done, but I've got plenty green linen left to make them with. Maybe in time for the next Faire? I've got until September.

Pics will be forthcoming once people get film developed.